There's a reason surfers talk about their sport with an almost spiritual reverence. The feeling of riding a wave for the first time is pure magic. If you've been thinking about giving surfing a try, here's what you need to know.
Start With a Soft-Top Board
Forget the sleek shortboards you see the pros riding. As a beginner, you want a large, foam-top longboard (8 to 9 feet). They're more buoyant, more forgiving, and much easier to stand up on. Most surf schools use them for a reason.
Learn to Read the Ocean
Before you even paddle out, spend some time watching the water. Look for:
- Where waves are breaking — is it a beach break or a point break?
- Currents and rip tides — look for channels of choppy, discolored water moving seaward
- Other surfers — where are they sitting? That's usually the sweet spot
Master the Pop-Up on Land First
The pop-up is the motion of going from lying on your board to standing. Practice it on the beach until it feels natural:
- Lie face down with your hands by your chest
- Push up explosively
- Swing your back foot under you in one motion
- Land with your feet shoulder-width apart, knees bent
Doing this 50 times on sand before hitting the water will save you hours of frustration.
Respect the Lineup
Surfing has unwritten rules. The most important: the surfer closest to the peak has priority. Don't drop in on someone else's wave. When in doubt, let it go — there's always another wave coming.
Be Patient With Yourself
Nobody stands up on their first wave. Most people spend their first few sessions just getting comfortable in the whitewater. That's completely normal. The ocean is humbling, and that's part of what makes surfing so rewarding.
See you in the lineup!